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| Hall in Tirol hotel roomsBut, exactly what is a truffle? Truffles are the grande dame of the mushroom family. Found buried in the earth near oaks, elms, or hazlenut trees (and in at least one case, an oak growing together with an olive tree) - the trees serve as hosts, these delectable vegetables have been known and greatly esteemed since the time of ancient Egypt. The Greeks and Romans attributed aphrodisiac qualities to them and in the Middle Ages truffles were associated with Venus, the goddess of love. You’ve probably gathered that since truffles don’t just grow out in the open, they aren’t particularly easy to procure, and you’re right. In the areas where truffles grow certain places are especially conducive to their growth, and the whereabouts of such places are kept secret. This knowledge is passed down from generation to generation. Specially trained dogs and pigs are used to sniff them out. Pigs actually bury their snouts in the earth when they catch the scent of buried truffles. Female pigs prove more effective than males because truffles secrete the hormone androstenol, devastingly attractive to females-the scent almost literally maddens them. More than 70% of truffles come from France’s southwest, from Provence, which provides favorable soil (high in limestone and chalk) and climate (Mediterranean) conditions. Always scarce, over the years they have become even more so. At the beginning of the 20th century France produced over 1000 tons of truffles each year; now, only 25-30 tons are produced. Environmentalists would do well to investigate the reason for this decline. Truffles are weighed like gold, and the price isn’t too different from the precious metal. The most prized of all, the fabled “black diamond” (“le diamant noir”), costs 700-900 euros per kilo or about $25. US per ounce. It has other names as well: Black Winter (tuber melanosporum), “Périgord Truffle” and “Quercy Burgundy.” It is this variety that is the star of Provence. Black diamond truffles can be up to the size of an apple, but they usually range from nut to egg size. With the exception of the Black Summer Truffle, truffles are in season from December 1 until March 31. hôtels LeuvenFour other varieties of truffle are particularly interesting to the gourmet: There is the Burgundy Truffle (tuber uncinatum), also known as “Truffe Grise” found mostly in Burgundy, Champagne, Lorraine, and Franche Conte. September 15-January 31 Then we have the White Italian Truffle (tuber magnatum), also known as the “Piemont Truffle,” because it is from the Piémont region of Italy, and as the “White Truffle from Alba.” This variety grows pimarily in northwest Italy. The white truffles are extremely rare and are priced at 19,000 francs per kilo or $1440. a pound. bed and breakfast Vilamoura countryThere is the Black Summer Truffle (tuber aestivum), also known as “Truffe-de-la-Saint-Jean”. This truffle is in season from May 1 until the end of August. And finally, we have the “Brumale Truffle” also known as “Truffe Musquée” (tuber brumale). There is another variety, the “Truffe mesentérique” (tuber mesenteicum), but this one is not at all delicious and of interest only to botanists. A fresh truffle will be firmly-fleshed, with an excellent aroma (its smell has been described as “wild and savage”) and flavor. Once washed, truffles must be prepared and eaten immediately. When shipped to places on the continent they are packed in the very earth where they were found. This is one reason why overseas shipments can be difficult to arrange. Only a customs officer who was a true gourmet could be counted on to wave such a shipment through. This is the reason why people often arrange to buy truffles either preserved in olive oil or with pâte. Truffle Markets There too many to list, but here’s a sampling that could keep you busy every day of the week during truffle season. Monday - Chamaret Tuesday - Albenque 2-2:30 PM and Grignan - Ste-Paul-Trois-Chateaux Wednesday - take a rest from the markets and visit the Museum of the Truffle in Ste-Paul-Trois-Châteaux. Tours run every day during the season. Thursday - Montségur-sur-Lauzon - Nyons On Thursdays there is also a truffle market and auction in Aups, a medieval village in the department of Var, in the foothills north of St. Tropez. From November through February. Friday - Suze-la-Rousse - Dieulefit - Carpentras (Vaucluse) Saturday - Richerenches. Arguably the biggest and the best. Saturday mornings from November to March. Sunday - Taulignan To read more about truffles I recommend the wonderful article - “Sniffing around the Var: In Search of the Perfect Truffle,” by Inger Holland, a writer and photgrapher for New Riviera Côte D’Azur magazine. Festivals Something very like a cult has grown up around the legendary vegetable, and those who worship at the altar of the truffle have their festivals. The Feast of the Truffle takes place in Ste-Paul-Trois-Châteaux on two weekends in February. For information or reservations call the Tourist Office: 04.75.96.61.29; Fax 04.75.96.74.61. There is a Truffle & Wine Feast in Grignan. You can see a competition of truffle hunting dogs and enjoy feasts of truffles and wine in all the local restaurants. Restaurants It would be impossible to mention all the restaurants scattered throuhout Provence that specialize in truffles, but one in particular bears mention here-Restaurant Christienne Etienne, in Avignon. Housed in a 12th century palace that originally belonged to the King of Naples and later, in the 14th century, passed into the hands of the popes, and restored by Monsieur Etiénne himself, it is a perfect setting for celebrating the glorious vegetable. Besides being renowned for his culinary skills, Etiénne is known as the ambassador of Provence on account of his knowledge of and love for the area. He has visited places as farflung as New York, Berlin, and Hong Kong to extol the delights of Provence and the truffle. His website is almost as elegant as the restaurant: www.chirstian-etienne.fr <http://www.chirstian-etienne.fr> Recipes Absolutely scrumptious dishes can be made with truffles, including omelettes sprinkled with truffles. You can also sprinkle eggs with truffles and leave for several hours before cooking. The pungent flavor of the truffles permeates the shells, and imparts a wonderful flavor to egg dishes. Those of you who are good at making pastries can try your hand at making “torte au chèvre,” a flaky pastry filled with goat cheese and finely minced black truffle. Recipes for these and more can be found at the Plantin truffles site: <http://www.plantin.com/en/html/truffles/> Wine Just imagine. You’ve managed to prepare a repast fit for a king with the truffles you somehow procured by hook or by crook, but you realize there is one last thing to consider. What does one drink with truffles? Be prepared to dig into your pocketbook one more time, but I promise it will be worth it. Wine connosieurs generally agree that either Châteauneuf du Pape or Pomeral are the best with truffles. A bottle of either runs anywhere from $28. to $33. At last, you’re ready to eat. Set the table with your best linen, china, and silverware, light some candles, turn on some soft music,
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 ©Ted R. Marcus |
 © Peter D'Aprix |
 ©Ted R. Marcus |
 ©Ted R. Marcus |